After a regrettable three-month’s absence from my blog I return to tell you all of my new home. I do plan on writing more about my time in India and Nepal last year, however for now I will give you a brief update about my new home.
I have spent three months hopping between cities and
countries, not having stopped anywhere for over a week since November. Term
finished at LSR and I went for 2013-trek number two in Nepal. Trek number two
finished and I went to Bangalore with my friend Nee, Delhi for a colourful three-day wedding, Kolkata to visit the kids at
Future Hope (where I previously volunteered for six months), onwards to
Thailand where I visited family and swam in the clear blue sea with the lovely Anu,
then to the UK for a whirlwind one week of visiting more family. It was then
time to start my new life and my next semester here in Tours, France.
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Everest sunrise in Nepal, Nov 2013 |
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Mum and I at the end of our 2 week Nepal trek |
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Cooking with Neeharika in Bangalore - yum! |
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Anjali's sister's wedding: colour, sarees, music and all-nighters |
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View from our Thailand bungalows |
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I baked an apple pie for Khun Yai before Christmas
('Did you forget the sugar?') |
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Dad and Brother |
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Thong repair number 2: Kolkata |
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Sunset on Church Farm |
To start I live in Sanitas, the dodgier part of town, in an
18m2 room. My window overlooks the parking lot, in which I am able to observe
daily drug deals with satisfying anonymity. In my room is a very single bed
(the mattress is smaller than the single frame), a wardrobe, shelf, desk and
bedside table. In the entrance to my apartment is a counter equipped with two
electric stove rings and a sink. Off to the side is a small bathroom. It feels
a bit like an old hospital, the floors being plastic, the walls all white and
the hallways dark and haunted, yet it is reassuring to know I have a place that
is my own in this very foreign city.
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My first French ad - Please save me from Sanitas! |
I arrived in Tours three weeks ago today, on the 12th
of Jan. My date of arrival was supposed to be four days prior to that but I
managed to (rather dramatically) miss my Wednesday morning flight; let’s just
say I am in no way a fan of the security staff at Stansted Airport.
In the Ryanair boarding queue I stood bemused as people pushed
and shoved in order to reach the front of the line; the prospect of acquiring
the best seats on an aeroplane evidently leads many Europeans to abandon
pleasantries and politeness. Happy to have made the boarding gate and relieved I’d
got away with my overweight baggage, I wasn’t fussed about which seat I would
get.
I was busy thinking about what my Couchsurfing host in Tours
would be like and whether I would have enough blankets to keep me warm as I
curled up on his leather sofa when someone in front of me turned and said,
“Do you need help
with all that?”
That was how I met Marie, a fun French woman on a family
visit to Tours, who speaks with a very British accent (‘innit?’) and has been
wonderful to me since that moment in the crazy queue. Marie was unsure I would
be let on the plane with my four (rather than the specified two) items of hand
luggage. Of course I was confident I would manage – I am masterful in the art
of hand luggage disguise – but as Marie offered I gladly let her take one of my
bags and from then on we became good friends. I ended up standing up my
Couchsurfing host and being driven back to Marie’s family home, where a hot
dinner, king’s pie, and delicious cheese platter awaited our arrival. Marie’s
family was kind and welcoming and I stayed for the next two nights.
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Place Jean-Jaures |
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The town square |
Over the next few days Marie drove me around, translated for
me and showed me the city. We went for drinks in Old Tours, wolf-whistled at
tall French men, disapproved of the tea at Ikea, ate croissants and discussed
starting a coffee shop in the city. On day three I moved into my apartment and
Marie helped me get settled here over the next couple of weeks.
Of course, some of the first friends I found here were other
Australians. We seem to have magnetic qualities that draw us together with
impressive speed and my first night out with other students ended up being
surprisingly patriotic. I was surprised by the number of exchange students in
Tours – contrary to my expectations of it being a tiny, unknown French city
Tours turns out to be quite a popular destination for people all over the
world. Besides the Aussies I have been spending time with Canadians, Italians,
Spanish, Polish, Irish and Greeks. The mix of languages, traditions and food
makes dinner parties and nights out all the more fun.
A bit about France and the lifestyle: Well I feel like the
discussion must start with food. The French love their food, I love their food
and therefore it makes sense to start here. To begin I will confirm that all the
clichés are true. French people riding old fashioned bicycles with baguettes in
their woven baskets, delicious croissants in every second shop and featuring in
most breakfast spreads, and of course CHEESE. It is delicious and cheap and is
eaten in sandwiches at lunch and with baguettes after dinner (before dessert).
This area is known for its goat cheese and wine and I can see why – there are
endless selections, each as delicious as the last. I could go on forever about
cheese.
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A traditional crepe evening with my new friends |
Vegetarianism in France is something unexpected and rarely
accepted. Most of the French people I inform I am a vegetarian first clarify,
“So you eat ham and fish?” When I reply that they also count as meat in my eyes
I receive looks of pity and admonition. Eating out is not easy (goat cheese
salad or a goat cheese crepe?) and I usually just end up getting a goat cheese
and walnut sandwich from the boulangerie instead. Supermakets and markets are
stocked with a lot of fresh produce and I therefore find cooking for myself
easy. I have to say I think it is about time the French culinary scene embraced
vegetarianism and came up with a few more dishes.
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Tours in a glass |
University. I am now in my official third week at uni and am
still struggling to find out what subjects are on offer. The faculty is astonishingly
disorganised and I am surprised the students manage to discover what classes
they are in. Scarce funding appears to have gone into employing an artist to
paint swirly signs and bendy postmodern people that appear beside doorframes
and are swallowed up by the vast white corridors. On a positive note the
classes I have attended have been interesting and my teachers are from all over
the place – American, British, African, French. My plan for now is to attend as
many classes as necessary and hope a timetable designs itself for me.
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Our local cathedral - 5th Century BC |
In general I like Tours and find myself settling into
lifestyle here quickly. I swim in a nearby Olympic-size pool a few times a
week, have found a great Iyengar yoga teacher, and am now in possession of a
hip, leather-seated bicycle on which I cruise the cobble streets and with which
plan to embark upon many explorative ventures. I am still struggling to adapt
to the strange opening hours of French shops (all shops closed for lunch, after
five, and on Sundays and Mondays) and the pool, which opens only for two hours
most days of the week, but suppose it is just a matter of time (excuse the
pun).
Since I began writing this blog I have given notice and am
on the hunt for a room in a more pleasant neighbourhood. My French is already
improving and I manage to get my message across most times. Ask me in a few
weeks and I’ll be living in a beautiful apartment in central Tours speaking
fluent French to the boulangeri owners across the rue.
Voila – you are up to date. Expect to hear more from me
soon!
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A bientot! |
Hi Ruby! I stumbled upon your blog from your Facebook page. Beautiful> I hope Tours will be a lovely adventure for you! A bientot!
ReplyDeleteThanks Emily! I am glad you enjoyed it :)
DeleteI plan to write a lot more in the next few months so stick around...
Next stop - Africa!
Ruby